Masterpieces on the Clothes Rack

For fast-fashion retailers, offering continuous collaborations with licensed properties, from character and entertainment IP to luxury fashion labels, has long been fundamental to their business model. Working with licensed IP is a critical tool for enabling a never-ending stream of in-and-out products that keeps their young customers coming back regularly to hunt for inexpensive treasures to add to their collections. 

Partnerships with artists and art, both contemporary and classic, have always been a part of this landscape, and they seem to be increasing in frequency of late. Examples announced by some of the leading players in 2024 so far highlight a range of genres and eras, showing the range of what is possible in this sector: 

• H&M. Many of this chain’s recent artist collaborations have focused on kidswear, including partnerships this year with Dutch artist Rop van Mierlo in March and with Keith Haring and Disney in July. For adults, the retailer launched a capsule in June with the estate of Jean-Michel Basquiat, along with designers Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore. In years past, the company has worked with many other artists on collections for kids and adults, with examples ranging from Alex Katz to Trevor Andrew to Lakwena Maciver. 

• Shein. Shein’s partnerships tend to fall under its Shein X label, which was founded to highlight collaborations with independent artists, designers, and brands. Recent examples include two digital artists: Gawx, known for his pop-art/graffiti-influenced style, in June, and abstract artist Maalavidaa, whose work focuses on emotions and mental health, in August. The company has worked with other artists, including Frida Kahlo, in the past. Among the many controversies with which it is involved, Shein is facing copyright-infringement lawsuits brought by artists who accuse the company of stealing their work. 

• Asos. In June, Asos worked with four LGBTQ+ artists, Ashton Attzs, Erik Carnell, Theodoor Grimes, and Tommy Burley, for a genderless Pride Month capsule that included tank tops, long- and short-sleeved t-shirts, socks, shorts, hoodies, shirts, dresses, and shoes.  

• Uniqlo. Most of this company’s artist collaborations fall under its UT line of graphic t-shirts. Some recent examples include a capsule pairing artists Kaws and Andy Warhol, which dropped last week and is based on the Kaws + Warhol exhibition at The Andy Warhol Museum that Uniqlo is sponsoring; a line in May that highlighted animals from Japanese ukiyo-e prints of the Edo period, featuring artists Katsushika Hokusai, Utagawa Hiroshige, Sakai Hoitsu, Ito Jakuchu, and Ogata Korin; and, in January, a Curated by Tate Collection featuring artists Patrick Brill (a.k.a. Bob and Roberta Smith), Nicholas Monro, Wilhelmina Barns-Graham, and Alexander Calder, which arose out of the retailer’s sponsorship agreement with the museum. 

• Pacsun. This retailer, whose merchandise is higher-priced than the other stores mentioned here but is still considered fast fashion by many, launched the Pac Artist Network Series in June as an umbrella for capsule collections with emerging creators, starting with California artist Kelly Malka. Pacsun also dropped several capsules in 2022 and 2023 through an agreement with The Met, including some inspired by individual artists found in the New York museum (such as Vincent van Gogh and Giovanni Battista Tiepolo) and some by collections or themes (such as images depicting New York City landmarks and Greek and Roman statues). 

Other fast-fashion retailers have also paired with artists in recent years. Forever 21 offered a Black History Month capsule with Stormy Nesbit, Ashley Sky Walker, and Henry Jones in 2021. Primark featured Keith Haring in a 2022 collection. And Zara paired with photographer Stephen Meisel to highlight some of his early-career fashion sketches last year. 

All of these initiatives help sate these retailers’ need for a stream of new IP and imagery to hold the interest of their loyal customers while perhaps bringing in new fans. At the same time, they help the IP owner create exposure among younger consumers who may turn into museumgoers or, ultimately, buyers of art.