Gender-Blind Basics

Licensing deals involving unisex lines of apparel, which are designed in such a way that they fit and appeal to both genders, have been on the rise for some time, and the trend seems to be accelerating. Agreements typically focus on t-shirts, sweatshirts, jackets, and other basic items, although they can extend beyond that.

Some observations:

• Unisex items can involve whole collections, capsules, or single items within a broader line, or complement mens’ and/or women’s products. Members Only’s deal with Nickelodeon for its family of 1990s characters (e.g., Rugrats) involved a unisex, limited-edition bomber jacket, with other pieces planned for the future; Fyodor Golan’s Felix the Cat collaboration included both unisex and women’s items; the B.U.M. Equipment label relaunched with four items meant to double as a young men’s and a unisex assortment.
• The merchandise can be focused on any age. The Haus of JR x Paw Patrol collection of 14 unisex pieces is aimed at preschoolers, while the Uniqlo x JW Anderson collection includes unisex products for adults, along with men’s and women’s items.
• There are sometimes activist overtones. The men’s and women’s label Frank and Oak introduced a unisex capsule collection as part of its “And” video campaign promoting inclusion, equality, and diversity, while H&M’s Denim United unisex “normcore” collection is meant to blur the boundaries between gender apparel preferences. As for licensed collaborations, retailer Asos paired with GLAAD, the LGBTQ media advocacy group, for a unisex collection of eight pieces that support the Together Movement.
• Unisex products can fall outside of the apparel category. Miley Cyrus lent her name to a unisex collection of sneakers with Converse, Kenneth Cole is among the latest designers to launch a unisex fragrance collection, and makeup artist Jessica Blackler and her Jecca label are offering a unisex makeup brand, with transgendered women a primary customer base.
• All property types can get in on the trend. SpongeBob (with six international designers), soccer-themed magazine Associated NYC (with denim brand Agolde), and rapper Wiz Khalifa (with labels 424 and Pleasure) have all created unisex lines. Not surprisingly, fashion designers are key players, with Nicola Formichetti (for his Nicopanda line with Amazon Fashion), Henry Holland (with apparel brand Ben Sherman), and Cédric Charlier (with Fruit of the Loom) being recent examples.

It should be noted that this trend is global. These deals alone, which represent just a handful of the many unisex collaborations that have come on the market recently, touch the U.K., Europe, and North America, and there are instances in most other key territories as well.

Watch for our Raugust Communications’ monthly e-newsletter, which comes out next Tuesday, February 20, 2018. Topics will include social shopping and preschool toys. If you are not yet a subscriber, you can sign up here.