South African Fashion Goes Global

Designers and labels from South Africa have gradually been expanding their presence on the world stage over the past several years, including through collaborations with global fashion companies and corporate brands. Four of the seven examples included here debuted this year:

• Just last week, Reebok announced it was launching a collection with athleisure brand Nao Serati, founded in 2014 by designer Nao Serati Mofammere. The products are themed to South African Pride month and are available in non-binary sizing, with people of all shapes and gender identities in mind. The range includes shorts, t-shirts, tank tops, and four footwear models.

• Thebe Magugu paired with Adidas this year, for two drops that encompass both performance and casual wear. The extensive collection, which includes track pants and jackets, leggings, jerseys, shorts, swim hijabs, hoodies, dresses, waist bags, shoes, tank tops, crew socks, and more, offers size inclusivity and some gender-neutral items. Tennis pieces from the collection have been worn by Adidas athletes on the pro circuit. In June of this year, the designer also collaborated with AZ Factory, the label of late designer Alber Elbaz.

• Also in 2022, Rich Mnisi teamed with Adidas Originals for a line of footwear, track jackets, t-shirts, tights, sweaters, and hoodies, among other items. Mnisi launched his brand in 2015, and recently debuted his first furniture collection. In the past, Mnisi has partnered with Woolworths, for men’s and women’s items as part of a broader celebration of South African designers, and with Levi’s, among other collaborations and marketing tie-ins.

• Footwear label Veldskoen partnered with DHL in March on a shoe collection highlighting the latter’s brand. (DHL has been in the high-fashion space since its first collaboration, with Vetements, back in 2015.) The Veldskoen collection features imagery by South African artist Reggie Kumalo, DHL’s name and logos, and references to South African culture. All of the shoes are hand-crafted, with 66 artisans contributing to each pair.

• Gert-Johan Coetzee collaborated with Mattel’s Barbie brand in 2021, creating a Barbie Loves Gert collection of gender-inclusive Barbie-themed pieces as well as doll-sized versions for Barbie herself. The collection of 31 looks included both ready-to-wear and couture pieces in styles inspired by South Africa’s diversity. The collection was sold on Coetzee’s e-commerce site. The designer also paired with Europa Art for a shoe collection in late 2021 and with Ricoffy, a South African coffee brand, for a bucket hat that same year.

• Palesa Mokubung and her brand Mantsho partnered with H&M for a global collection in 2019, marking the first time the retailer had paired with an African designer. The collection of modern, colorful apparel, shoes, bags, and earrings included some bestsellers from her core collection and some new prints created just for H&M. The label has long been well known across Africa and its reputation has been growing globally as well.

• In an older example, Chu Suwannapha, a Thailand-born, South Africa-based designer known as “The Prince of Prints,” and his label Chulaap paired with Superga seven years ago, in 2015, for an Afro Pop-themed collaboration consisting of three styles. The co-branded collection marked the Italian shoe company’s first tie-in with an African designer. This year, Suwannapha paired with the French cognac brand Louis XIII on a marketing campaign.

In addition to these collaborations with global brands, South African designers are, not surprisingly, regularly pairing with retailers, labels, and fellow designers in their home country. Lukhanyo Mdingi, for example, has worked with designer Fikile Sokhulu, jewelry brand Pichulik, clothing store AKJP Studio, and fashion and textile designer Nicolas Coutts. Similarly, Masonwabe Ntloko has paired with Cape Town music festival Rocking the Daisies, rug maker Airloom for several collections, men’s fashion retailer Markham, and many more.

While each is unique in mission, positioning, sensibility, and style, these designers collectively tend to be known for their vibrant colors; their modern spins on South African culture, heritage, and motifs; and their celebration of South African craftsmanship.