Feeling Blue

A number of recent licensed and collaborative products have taken denim—or at least its look and feel—into categories where it has not traditionally had much of a presence:

• Lingerie. Last week, American Eagle said it was pairing with sibling lingerie and casual apparel brand Aerie for the first time to launch a limited collection of 34 products under the theme “A Match Made in Denim.” The partnership brings the sensibility of American Eagle’s jeans to soft fabrics using a cool-transfer technology and special dyeing and washing techniques. Products include men’s underwear, sports bras, joggers, intimates, and leggings, as well as dresses, jackets, sweatshirts, and t-shirts. 

• Shoes. In fall of 2023, Levi’s and Crocs announced an upcycling initiative that used Levi’s dead stock to create a very limited edition of one-of-a-kind denim versions of Crocs’ All Terrain Clogs. The partners brought in Proleta Re Art, a designer specializing in upcycled denim pieces, to create a unique paisley print on each shoe, with different colors for each pair. The fabric is archival White Oak denim, named for a now-shuttered factory of that name known for the high-quality materials it produced for use in Levi’s jeans. The upcycled products were given away at the Soho Levi’s store. At the same time, a broader capsule was offered for sale. It consisted of an All-Terrain Clog in light- and dark-washed denim with Sashiko embroidery, a traditional Japanese handcraft used for mending that is popular on denim in that country, and Classic Clogs with a tie-dye-look print on non-denim fabric.  

• Collectibles. Lee collaborated with art toy maker Medicom and its BE@RBRICK brand in 2023 for a global program of Buddy Lee products. The initiative takes the denim-wearing mascot, used in Lee advertising from the 1920s to early 1960s, into the collectible toy market with figures in 1,000%, 400%, and 100% sizes. Conversely, Lee created a BE@RBRICK collection of 1990s-style clothing including patched denim jackets and graphic t-shirts, as part of the collaboration.

• Cosmetics. American Eagle worked with e.l.f. to create a makeup and skincare collection in 2023, aimed at Gen Z consumers. The partnership represented the first beauty collaboration for American Eagle and the first fashion collaboration for e.l.f. The range included denim-blue lipstick and nail polish, a denim-pocket beauty bag, a blue lip balm that turns pink upon application, a denim-blue clay mask for “both sets of cheeks,” denim and denim-look packaging, and eye shadows in denim blue and other complementary shades, with names like Mom Jeans and High Rise and the A.E. denim tag reproduced in the eyeshadow palette. 

• Home goods. In 2021, Levi’s partnered with Target, a more-than-decade-long partner in the apparel department, for a limited-edition collection of more than 100 durable and sustainable items priced from $3 to $150, with most under $25. The range was focused mostly on home goods such as barware, denim pet beds, stoneware table- and serveware, bandana-print pillows and coasters, furniture, and striped denim throws, along with clothing and accessories items. The design integrated Levi’s classic look, from a denim-covered ottoman with the famous red seam tag to a stoneware appetizer plate with a background replicating the look of denim fabric and a thin tag-colored red line crossing through.  

Innovations such as new printing, washing, and dying techniques have made it possible to produce all kinds of patterns and surface designs on denim, as well as bring denim into non-traditional categories and materials. That evolution, along with growing creativity in product design and development in the category, means almost anything goes when it comes to creating new applications for this both trend-forward and classic material. 

A reminder that the latest edition of Raugust Communications’ monthly e-newsletter comes out tomorrow, July 16, 2024. The Licensing Topic of the Month looks at how property owners are increasingly partnering with direct competitors in the licensing space, while the Datapoint research spotlight sheds light on contract lengths in the global fragrance business. If you are not yet a subscriber to this free publication, you can sign up here.