Apparel in the Picture for Photographers

Photographers are less frequent participants in apparel collaborations than artists, in part because photographs offer less flexibility in design than is possible with art imagery and in part because the pool of high-profile photographers is smaller than the pool of artists, among other factors. But there are opportunities, not just for graphic t-shirts but for a growing variety of apparel and other items, some highlighting full photos, some featuring more traditional art-based imagery inspired by the photographer’s work, and some not tied to the photographs at all.

Last month’s news that Zara was partnering with photographer Steven Meisel is the latest example. This new collaboration follows a handful of other high-profile initiatives over the past couple of years, with partners ranging from high-end streetwear labels to fast-fashion retailers and beyond:

• Meisel, known for his photos of supermodels, paired with Zara in September 2023 for his first apparel collection, consisting of close to 60 men’s and women’s pieces. Meisel has long photographed campaigns for the retailer, which helped fund an exhibition of his work in Spain last year. For this collaboration, the photographer created portraits of 26 people wearing the clothes, which are highlighted in the collection’s lookbook and in advertising. Unlike most of the other examples listed here, the collection itself does not center on Meisel’s photos, but encompasses all-black hoodies, overcoats, parkas, jeans, skirts, bandanas, and the like, made of materials such as denim, faux fur, and leather. Graphic t-shirts include drawings from when Meisel was a fashion illustrator.

• The work of late Italian photographer Luigi Ghirri, known for his colorful, surrealist pictures of sunny 1970s and 1980s Italy, was highlighted in February 2023 by label Max & Co. and a third collaborator, British-Nigerian designer Duro Olowu. The People, Places, Colour collection, which included satin jackets, biker jackets, knits, satin pants, headscarves, and shirt dresses, among other items, featured a variety of bright shades—especially Ghirri’s signature dark orange—along with stripes, geometric prints, and graphics inspired by Ghirri’s photos. Both the brand and the photographer hail from the same region of Italy, Reggio Emilia. The clothing was aimed at women of all ages, globally.

• Alvin Baltrop, the late photographer known for his photos of underground LGBTQ+ culture of the 1970s and 1980s, was featured by Altu, designer Joseph Altuzarra’s “genderful” brand—which encompasses masculine and feminine styles that can be worn by anyone—in December 2022. Baltrop’s photos, ranging from erotic nudes to city scenes, including some previously rarely seen images, were screenprinted onto the items, which included leather pants, crewnecks, hoodies, and leather jackets.

• South African artist and photographer Lea Colombo paired with Scandinavian retailer COS in July 2022 for a limited-edition swimwear and apparel capsule highlighting an exclusive series of three vibrant floral images created in the darkroom. The collection, the hues of which were described as “technicolor,” included dresses, shirts, skirts, and sustainable swimwear made of Econyl.

• Estevan Oriol partnered with workwear brand Dickies in July 2022 for a 12-piece collection featuring Oriol’s images of Los Angeles, some gritty and some glamorous. The photographer’s work features famous faces as well as urban, gang, and tattoo culture. The collaborative assortment included twill work pants, long-sleeve t-shirts, and denim bib overalls.

• Back in 2021, in what was thought to be a first for a sportwear company, photographer and activist (and Under Armour employee) Devin Allen, known for his photos of Baltimore, paired with Under Armour for a limited-edition Black History Month line of sneakers and clothing featuring his work. Called UNDR ARMR x DVNLLN, the collection highlighted Allen’s photographs of youth athletes and edgy city scenes. Four shoe styles—the Curry 8, HOVR Phantom 2, Forge RC, and Spawn 3—were included, as well as apparel items such as hoodies with large-scale photo prints on the back. Some of the proceeds went to Baltimore youth arts programs.

• Also in 2021, Kevin Cummins, known for his 1970s backstage photos of British musicians like The Smiths and Joy Division, partnered with Wasted Paris for a collaboration called After Show. The photos printed on the items were from Cummins’ book, Manchester: Looking for the Light Through the Pouring Rain, which was also available for sale along with the capsule of four t-shirts and two skateboards. The label on the t-shirts was inspired by the backstage pass of the Manchester, England, nightclub The Hacienda.

• Juergen Teller paired with Palace, for whom he frequently shoots campaigns and lookbooks, in 2021 for a collection featuring his photographs going back to the 1980s, described as provocative, humorous, and raw. The capsule included t-shirts, totes, shirts, and hoodies featuring photos in combination with logos and text. Images depicted cigarettes, dead dogs, frogs, and nudes.

Watch for Raugust Communications’ monthly e-newsletter in your in-box tomorrow, October 17, 2023. The Licensing Topic of the Month will consider the lessons for the licensing business from Lego’s recent announcement that it would discontinue its efforts to make bricks from recycled plastic bottles. The Datapoint research spotlight will examine the changing landscape of properties involved in sneaker collaborations. If you have not yet subscribed to this free publication, you can do so here.